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Simplified Leather Care Pricing Guide (pdf format) Aniline Finish - A process of coloring skins, without a top finish - only dyes are used to achieve the coloration. This process can only be used on the finest quality skins as all surface blemishes remain apparent in this process and thus become noticeable in the garment. Blemish - Any distinct mark occurring on the skin that is secondary to the natural character of the skin. Burnished - Induced shine accomplished by ironing the skin. Cockle - A common skin disease due to insect attack while the animal is alive. It appears as circular spots resembling raindrops. Corrected Grain - A process of correcting cowhide skins whereby the grain of the leather is leveled with a chemical product. The process is generally applicable to lower-quality skins with deep abrasions. Crocking - Loose fiber/dye particles which don't fully adhere to the skin. Distressed - A process of finishing on a variety of skins (cow, lamb, goat) which simulate a worn or aged look. Double Hiding - Naturally occurring phenomenon in lambskins relating to the separation of the layers of the skin, with the formation of air pockets between the layers of skin. Drape - Refers to the manner in which the finished garment hangs on the person. Drum - A large vessel or vat used in the processing of the skins. Drum Dyed - A process of coloration whereby the skins are fully immersed in a liquid dye solution in order to obtain desired color. Emboss - A mechanical means of changing the normal grain of the skin. Exotics - Refers to a number of unusual animal/reptile skins that are tanned primarily for the small leather good/accessory/shoe business (i.e. lizard, snake, crocodile skins, etc.) Finish - A means of adjusting the skin in order to achieve the desired color, or the visible layer of materials applied to the skin Flank - the loose, thin side portion of the skins (the underbelly of the animal). Flesh - The interfacing side of the skin as opposed to the outer portion of the skin. Glazed - Induced shine on the skin surface by a glass or steel roller. Growth - Naturally occurring lines which form during the development of the animal, generally found around the neck and butt area. Hand - Refers to the tactile feel of the leather. Interfacing - A non-woven, man-made material that is applied to the leather by using heat and glue that gives the garment added structure. Leather- Any animal skin that is tanned with its hair follicles removed. Mill - Tumbling the skins in a large vessel to induce softness and other grain characteristics. Nap - the fibrous surface of suede. Nappa - A finished lamb, sheepskin or cowhide, on the grain side. Nubuck - A process of finishing whereby the grain side of the skin (lambskin or cowhide) is stripped away, leaving a suede effect. The look of the nubuck process will give a similar appearance to suede as it produces a tight, velvety nap. Pack - Refers to any dye lot (drum load) of tanned leather. Patent - A heavily finished effect that gives a highly lustrous, baked enamel type appearance. Pigment Dyed - A process of finishing any leather whereby the color is applied in the final stage of finishing. The pigment is applied to the surface of the skin instead of being absorbed into the skin as in the case of the drum-dyed leather. Pinhole - A natural defect related to skins of fine-wooled origin. When thick hair follicles or clumps of hair follicles are removed from the grain of the leather, they can leave a hole the size of a pin prick in the surface of the skin similar to a pore. Ribby - A naturally occurring phenomenon, particularly associated with fine-wooled sheepskins whereby the rib-cage area of the animal leaves delineated markings on the skin. Scars - Any unnatural occurring opening in the skin surface that has healed, leaving a distinct marking. Seedy - Small indentions of the grain surface caused by grass-seed penetration. Shearling - Natural lamb pelts with the leather side often sueded and worn on the outside. color variation and skin blemishes are common. Skive - The process of reducing the thickness of leather. Skiver - the grain split of the sheepskin. Shrunken - A process applied strictly to sheep and lambskins, whereby the natural grain texture is altered to take on a pebbled or mottled appearance. This tanning process can be induced either chemically or physically by shrinking the skin. Split - A layer of skin that has been skived off by mechanical means. Square Foot - The unit of measure of a skin by which all leathers are purchased from tanners by manufacturers. Strain - A skin defect generally found in the flank of the skin wherein the grain layer of the skin opens and splits away from the secondary layer of skin. Suede - Suede skins are always finished on the flesh side of the skin. By doing so, the tanner is able to achieve a "nappy" appearance. If the tanner leaves the fibrous materials of the skin too long, the skin is termed to be "woolly". If the tanner desires a fine smooth appearance, the individual fibers are closely cropped and the skin is termed to have a "fine nap". Tannage/Tanning - The means of stabilizing the skin structure by chemical means. Weight - The term used for the measurement of the thickness of the leather. SCORES OF
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